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Hardware manual


The board is pre-assembled with SMD parts and is shipped along with all needed THT components. The microcontroller already contains the current firmware version.

Please solder carefully, temperature controlled and using a “no clean” solder wire. Please do not clean the solder joints. Keep the static shielding bag. Avoid static discharge and swarf (for example during and after metal works on your lamp).

Pay attention to the polarity of the components.

The jumper is only needed to re-flash the firmware after a failed update attempt.

Animation of the assembly process:

Download video / full screen

Some detailed notes on soldering can also be found in the Frequently asked questions. If there still are questions, difficulties or doubt, please send an email:

There are 4 mounting holes on the board. Please use appropriate screws and spacers to avoid short circuits. A mounting kit can be ordered separately. Mount CoolTWILED directly onto the aluminium plate that also carries the LEDs. This will keep the cables short and ensures proper cooling.


A suitable display with a 25 cm (10“) cable is enclosed.

A display with 4 lines of text (instead of 2) can be ordered separately.

Please connect or disconnect cables only when powered off, i.e. unplugged power supply. While plugging please make sure the board does not deform. Please mount the display so that no short circuits to other metal parts can happen.

Connecting the power supply

The wattage of the power supply has to be greater than the wattage of all the LEDs.

Please supply a voltage between 24 and at most(!) 40 Volt DC. To the power supply use at least 1.5 mm² (No. 16 AWG) wire gauge, so that the fuse can blow in case of a problem. Please make sure the polarity is correct and all cables are fastened well before applying power.

In Master/Slave configuration all boards need to be wired separately. If you use more than one power supply, their grounds have to be connected.

Please connect or disconnect cables only when powered off, i.e. unplugged power supply. Before powering on, please re-check that no wiring mistake has been made.

Connecting the LEDs

Each board contains 12 step-down converters (A-L) which provide hardware-configurable constant currents and which can be dimmed separately.

The polarity is printed onto the board. Every letter represents a channel which can be configured to a meaningful name from a list on the web interface. By default the channels A to F are called “White”, the channels G and H “Red”, the channels I and J “Green” and the channels K and L “Blue”. This is also shown in the example wiring diagram below.

If you use white LEDs with a forward voltage of (about) 10 Volt and a 24 Volt power supply, you can connect a maximum of 2 of these LED in series (per output). If the LEDs have a forward voltage of (about) 3.5 Volt, you can connect 6 of them per output. Of course you can also connect less LEDs. The LED drivers will still provide the configured constant current and the voltage is reduced. However, it is recommended to connect as many LEDs in series as possible. It is ok to leave some or all of the outputs unconnected, too.

For the LED connections 0.14 mm² (No. 26 AWG) wire gauge is enough. It is recommended to use different colors for every output to avoid mix-ups which is very important.

Please connect or disconnect cables only when powered off, i.e. unplugged power supply. It is very important to wire all outputs separately. No part of one leg may come in contact with a part of another leg. Also make sure (measure) no output touches the case or ground. Otherwise the LED drivers would not be able to keep the current constant and outputs are damaged. If you use LEDs for fish tanks other than the ones available here, make sure (measure) the heat sink is electrically insulated from either terminal. In case you order a different, custom current configuration, please connect the LEDs accordingly (see page two of the invoice)!

Connecting Slave boards

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